Friday, July 27, 2007

THEY'RE HERE!!!

The Tall Ships are pouring into Stockholm!!!
There are 116 of these grand vessels still in the race around the Baltic. For two days now, they have been gliding into downtown Stockholm, their yards dotted with the attentive figures of their crews bawling out shanties.
At this hour we await the biggest of them all, the Sedov from Russia. It is pouring rain in Stockholm, but the entire harborfront, the roof tops, and balconies are all jammed with people watching the fleet. Of course, Vasa just has to join these other tall ships and has attracted equally large summer crowds, filling the museum to its max.
This morning the full-rigger Europa came in under sail. Those of you in Seattle may remember her as the queen of the fleet, the grandest tall ship of them all, when she sailed into Elliott Bay for the Seattle Tall Ships Festival in 2002. Well, here in European waters she's like a dinghy beside the enormous vessels coming in such as the huge bark Cuauhtemoc from Mexico (the food in the galley smells so good I want to go back to the Americas) or the garganutan Kruzenshtern form Russia.
It is indeed Tall Ships Time!

Monday, July 23, 2007

Havhingsten is underway!!!!

Havhingsten fra Glendalough is underway!!
Roskilde, Denmark---Dublin, Ireland.
Havhingsten (Sea Stallion) is an incredible vessel and holds the title of being the world's largest Viking Longship replica, measuring 30 meters from stem to stern (about 100ft). Her design was taken from the remarkably well-preserved remains of an identical ship sunk in Roskilde Fjord around 1080 and excavated in the 1960s. Among the most interesting finds during the excavation was the fact that the timber used to build the ship had been grown and felled around 1040 in the vicinity of Dublin, Ireland--then a Viking colony.
Given the ship's Irish roots, the Roskilde Viking Ship Museum decided that the replica should make a voyage to Dublin--partly as a publicity stunt, partly for research purposes. Many Viking ship replicas have been built and sailed, but never has a vessel of such size been built or tested on the open and fierce North Sea. This voyage will reveal much about the seaworthiness and handling of Viking Longships.
Havhingsten was launched in 2004 and training cruises for her 65-man/woman crew began almost immediately. I had the pleasure of sailing on one of those cruises last summer--Absolutely in-friggin'-credible!!!! (sorry, I'll get those photos up soon, I promise!).

They have a great website following the voyage that's worth checking out...

Waterfront humor...

Boat folk are known for being practical jokers....

...often with a rather lewd sense of humor...

...and other times they just like to make little jokes for the observant passersby.

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Dock-diving...

Suit up! We're going in!

Time for a random tale about one of the numerous little adventures going on around the Vasa Museum every day. This time we head for the putrid little pond infront of the museum for a little dock-diving!


The whole thing started with this little fountain. The Vasa Museum is built over an old graving dock (drydock cut out of the bedrock). The ship and the museum only cover part of it leaving the inland end of the dock an open pit that has been filled with water for nifty little pond. Well, someone got the bright idea to add a fountain made from a Zetterström nozzle...


The Zetterström nozzle shoots water both forward through the tip and backward through those depressions just below the head shown here. This makes it possible to use a high-pressure water hose underwater without getting the Walt Disney effect that sends cartoon characters flailing about on the end of the hose.

The Zetterström nozzle was critical in the Vasa salvage project in the late 1950s being used to blast away mud, silt, and clay as divers essentially drilled a set of tunnels under Vasa for the lifting slings. So the fountain has a special meaning here in front of the Vasa Museum.

Well, the problem was that this great fountain is mounted on a buoy tethered to the bottom of the graving dock by a cable. The cable goes through a pair of blocks (pulleys) and comes up to the surface along the dock wall where it can be managed. The thing was, those little blocks on the bottom of the dock had corroded out and broke. The buoy bobbed up, tipped over halfway, and then began floating about the pond spouting water over the railing etc. Fiddlesticks!



The fountain was quickly shut off and the head scratching over how to fix it began. Draining the dock of several hundred tons of water and to make the repair and then refilling it was out of the question. It appeared that the only way to fix it was to don a mask, tank, and flippers and dive into the dock and mount a new block; something Fred was not looking forward to as a hen mallard had been living in the putrid dock with her clutch of ducklings all spring.



But alas, one must do what needs to be done. So Niklas gathered up all the tools, ropes, a new block, and the fountain buoy (which had been removed) and began reassembling the fountain unit.

After we had hauled the 20ft-long pipe and bouy through the throngs of tourists, it was time to refit the pumping unit.

The design was pretty simple with a submersible electric pump hung from the bottom of the buoy. It would simply draw water directly out of the dock for launch up the pipe and into the air for the viewing pleasure of the visitors and resident ducks.



But simplicity of design rarely means simplicity of assembly...


...and there was a good bit of shoving and grunting trying to get the pump refitted and all its hose-clamps tightened.

Then the dirty work began; Fred wriggled into his full-body drysuit (he would wear nothing less in the 'duck poop pond' regardless of the early summer heat) and prepared to descend into the disgustingly murkey depths.

First came the suit, then the requisite struggle with the tank, valves, lead weight belt, and for good measure, some prolonged wrestling with the adjustment straps on the full-coverage face-mask.


Of course all this activity began to draw a crowd. First it was museum staff on their coffee break who had heard something about Fred diving in the duck pond; that was just somethign that had to be seen. Here Ronny and Mikke hover about for a look. As Fred suited up and began to look more and more like a space alien with huge yellow feet, a cylindrical humpback, and a glass face, tourists started to gather around the area to watch.

Down below on a wobbly steel grating, Fred got his flippers on, buckled up his BCD, fitted his mask...

...and made sure I knew all the pull-signals as I was to be his dive-tender on the emergency tether. One, give me more line; Two, take up the slack; Three, get me out of here! It wasn't the more complex signals Fred uses on his archological sites, but it was a good, simplified version a beginner dive-tender like me couldn't forget.


Then, with everything set (and every inch of skin covered to evade the duck feces), Fred laboriously heaved himself and all his tanks and weights forward and plundged into the hideous brown water.


Then the work began and Fred swam along the wall (with me following on the tether like a puppy) toward the reconstructed fountain buoy which Niklas , Ronny, and I had just put back in the water.


Then this white bucket was lowered down to Fred with the new block and an assortment of tools he might need while on the bottom of the dock, some 5 meters below the surface.


With a parting gurgle and an 'A-okay' hand signal, Fred disappeared into the murk.


His 'Dive Support Team' followed along with the various bits of equipment (from left to right, Eddie with the tool bucket, Niklas with the buoy tether, me with Fred's emergency tether, and Ronny with the fountain buoy).


After fixing the first broken block on the bottom, the cloud of bubbles that marked Fred's location began to move out toward the middle of the graving dock.


The tool bucket and the fountain then scooted off after him, being towed from below.



A few minutes later the fountain was bobbing in the middle of the dock, right in place, and Niklas could start taughtening the cable and securing the buoy fountain in place.


Fred, delighted that the repair had gone well (and even more delighted to be out of the foul-tasting water) surfaced and began passing me his gear and then hauled out; a job well done.

The pump unit was plugged in and, in seconds, the Zetterström fountain spouted back to life in the Vasa Museum dock.

What a sight!

It was so scenic a few of the staff just had to go for a short row around the fountain...to pick up pop bottles thrown into the pond by tourists.

So there you have it, another dull, hum-drum day at the Vasa Museum doing routine maintenance. I may never leave...

Special thanks to Arvid Engström for use of some of his photos.

Saturday, July 07, 2007

The Harbor from on High...

From a hilltop overlooking Stockholm harbor....
An unidentified schooner out for an afternoon sail in Stockholm harbor.

Around she comes...

... Jibe ho! And the boom swings across the deck and she sails off on a broad reach.


Then...
The classic old Birger Jarl comes booming up the channel.


She's the last classicly designed passenger ship doing regular trans-Baltic routes. She was built int he 1950s to ferry Swedes across to the Helsinki Olympics. Now she runs to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands.

Steaming past Beckholmen Island...

...toward the Old Town...

...where she is completely dwarfed by the mega-cruise-ships of today.