A Dose of Norwegian Pride; Statsraad Lehmkuhl

Now for a quick peek at the Norwegian bark Statsraad Lehmkuhl.
The Lehmkuhl had the distinguished honor of being among the oldest vessels to participate in the 2007 Tall Ships Race. Like the Russian giants, she was built in Germany. Ninety-eight meters long (258ft) and rated at 1,516 tons, she slid down the ways in 1914 and went to sea as the Grossherzog Friedrich August.

However, 1914 marked the start of that rather disastrous downturn in German seafaring known in certain circles as World War I. When that 'Great Misunderstanding' was resolved in 1918, the Grossherzog Friedrich August was handed over to Great Britain as a war reparation--notice a pattern here? I am beginning to wonder if the Tall Ships Race is really about historic ships or just for showing off war prizes?

(Either way, sailing ships make great war reparations. America really ought to build a few dazzlingly lovely ones to give away at the Post-Iraq Gala. After all, we need to recover our dignity after giving South Vietnam those ugly, modern navy ships. Where has the grace in losing gone?)

In 1921 the Grossherzog Friedrich August was sold to Norway and has since operated out of Bergen as the Norwegian Naval Training Ship Statsraad Lehmkuhl.

When I stepepd aboard there was a training excercise/demonstration in progrss. With a harness, block and tackle, and plenty of encouragement shouted from the deck, one of the Norwegian cadets was hoisting herself up the mainstay. Sure cuts down on the need for extra crew if people can hoist themselves aloft!

Yet, being a square-rigger carrying five yards on both the main and foremasts, plenty of headsails and staysails, plus a spanker, gaff-topsail, and everything else on the mizzenmast, the Statsraad Lehmkuhl still requires a crew of 150 cadets to keep her ship-shape and on course.

From the look of it, they are doing a mighty good job of it. The paint, varnish, and bronzework was spotless, the lines nicely coiled down, and the teak decking scrubbed and clean.

She was the picture of a 'taught ship' without a slack line or a brush and bucket out of place.

The Lehmkuhl was moored furthest out along the south side of the harbor and from her decks one had a pretty good view of the happenings of the harbor. Peeking over the rail to have a look at the hull plating, I found the little M20 nosing past. She's a wooden-hulled Swedish minesweeper from the 1950s that resides at the pier in front of the Vasa Museum beside the icebreaker Sankt Erik.

Speaking of the Sankt Erik, she was steaming in from one of her tours at that moment--cooling water thundering out of her side and a flotilla of admirers following along.

My... how she just glides along making nary a wake at all....

Wow....

But wait! I am already aboard a stunning vessel!

But why fight it? As lovely as the Lehmkuhl is with her gorgeous teak deck and brightwork, she is not my ship in the way Sankt Erik is. The Lehmkuhl is just a passing acquaintance...but certainly one of those stunning acquaintances you never forget.

The Norwegian bark Statsraad Lehmkuhl.

Indeed, another magnificent ship.