Saturday, August 18, 2007

Tall Ships Day 2: Statsraad Lehmkuhl glides in

Arriving early at the harbor to start off Day 2, I caught the arrival of three of the event's most beautiful vessels, Shtandart, Statsraad Lehmkuhl, and Europa. Despite the rain and blustery winds, thousands joined me at the harbor to parttake of the grand spectacle.

Statsraad Lehmkuhl of Norway appeared out of the mists like a ghost ship in some aged tale of Arctic exploration. It was amazing, just seeing that form loom out of the sheets of fast falling rain.

Built in 1914, her masts were raked back just enough to give her a proud--even slightly haughty--posture as she came gliding into the harbor disciplined and stately.

As she came out of the rain one could see and hear her crew aloft singing that familiar and even over-used sea chantey, 'South Australia'.


But those voices belting out the song over the raindrop-dotted harbor was enough to put a thrilling chill down you spine.

An almost inaudible engine rumbling away in the bowels of the ship eased her gently through the harbor toward Gamla Stan.

As the air cleared of rain, her brilliant white paint seemed to illuminate everything around the ship...

...a seemingly hallowed glow that followed her as she strode onward toward the palace.

What a sight!

Nearing Gamla Stan, she swung to port and making a salutory pass by Stockholm's ancient center, settled in about 1240.

Somehow, the Statsraad Lehmkuhl, a vision out of the mists of the past, just seemed to belong with the city's bygone skyline.

Then, completing her 180-degree turn, Statsraad Lehmkuhl headed for her berth along the Södermalm shoreline, her strident form beaming in the sun that was just piercing through the clouds.

Like Shtandart, Statsraad Lehmkuhl had a hoard of admirers following her up the banks (with me practically in the lead).

Passing Cuauhtemoc, Khruzenshtern, and finally Dar Mlodziezy, the 98-meter Statsraad Lehmkuhl swung her bow toward the pier...

...her crew still belting out 'South Australia' from aloft.

The crowds were restrained behind a fence while the line-handlers readied themselves to receive the Lehmkuhl's lines on the pier.

As always during the Tall Ships visit, a tug stood by to help. But its presence was never needed as the crews sailing on these great ships had mastered their maneuvers to the point where a tug really wasn't anything more than a formality required by insurance companies.

These men and women, after all, were among the world's most elite sail-training crews.

With that, the heaving lines were thrown ashore and the dock hands began hauling in the heavy mooring hawsers...

Soon lines were put across fore and aft and the Statsraad Lehmkuhl was hauled into the pier and made fast.

Bo no sooner had the chantey singers come down from aloft than the next tall ship could be sighted coming down the channel.....

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1 Comments:

Blogger ntadams said...

I went to a fancy cocktail party on Dar Mlodziezy with the president of Poland when the ship arrived in Szczecin.

3:41 PM  

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