Sunday, January 29, 2006

The Winds of Winter...


This week the winds of winter have indeed been blowing in Stockholm. Strong, steady, and bitter, it whips over the now-frozen harbor sending drifting snow across the ice in curling clouds. Onboard Sankt Erik the sounds of the ship and harbor change with the weather. The gentle slap of wavelets on the hull has been replaced by the menacing grinding of ice against the steel plating or just eerie silence. The chatter of propellers from the passing commuter ferries is nearly drowned out under the thumping and banging of broken ice against their thin hulls and the big cruise ships coming in from Finland and Estonia each morning fill Sankt Erik with the sounds of crushing ice, often booming and cracking with startling violence.

Yet, I enjoy every minute of it. There is something wonderful about being on an icebreaker in the worst winter weather--a sense of purpose and belonging that is embodied in the ship and survives despite her now-long-ago retirement. So, during the evening hours when I am back aboard the ship for the night and the snow has begun to sift down heavily I tend to find myself going on deck or up to the bridge to gaze about at the ship and the harbor lights.




It has been piling up in a gorgeous white blanket much of the week. This is the afterdeck.


Everyday elements of the ship take on a more unique appearance under the snow...

...A pair of bitts with a mooring line made fast to them.

...One of the ship's skylights.


The lightship Finngrundet frozen in the ice beside Sankt Erik.

Soaking up the Swedish winter and wishing you all well,
-Nat

The legendary ice-breaker bow

Frozen in.